Explore Shillong: Best Cafes, Viewpoints, Laitlum & Elephant Falls — a messy, happy, real travel story#

I’ll be honest, Shillong took me by surprise. I thought it would be crowded and touristy and, you know, a little overhyped. But the city felt like a hug — soft rain, smoky pork, warm tea, guitar strums, and those ridiculous green slopes that make you just stare and forget your phone exists for 5 mins straight. I reached on a moody morning with clouds hanging low over Umiam, and halfway up the highway my driver pointed at a chai stall perched on a bend and went, “boss, sunset yahan pe strong hota hai.” And that’s how the trip started — random advice, heartfelt food, hills that kind of swallow you, in the best way.¶

Getting to Shillong, first impressions, and that Umiam Lake stop you shouldn't skip#

Most of us get in via Guwahati. Guwahati Airport has more flights and better chances for on-time arrivals than Shillong’s Umroi Airport, which is closer but honestly hit-or-miss on weather. There are shared Sumos and buses (Meghalaya Transport) from Paltan Bazar in Guwahati, or you can grab a reserved cab for roughly ₹2,800–₹3,500 depending on your bargaining game and the time of day. The drive is 3–4 hours, but seriously, stop at Umiam Lake viewpoint before Nongpoh. You’ll see tiny vendors selling pineapple slices dusted with chilli-salt, and chai that tastes like home. On clear days the water is steel-blue and still, and on misty ones, it’s all grey and dreamy. Both moods are gorgeous. Quick update-y note for folks planning: road conditions fluctuate in monsoon (June–Sept), with occasional landslides or slow-moving traffic near steep bends. Keep checking Meghalaya Police or local news advisories when it’s pouring. Also, night drives can be tricky because fog plus curves equals stress — don’t do it unless necessary.¶

Where to stay: Police Bazar vs Laitumkhrah vs Upper Shillong#

I booked a homestay in Laitumkhrah because I wanted cafés and late-night momos walking distance. Great choice. Police Bazar is super central, easy for taxis, shopping, Wards Lake, and old-school vibes. But it’s busy and a bit noisy. Laitumkhrah feels student-y, lots of bakeries, noodles, coffee and gig nights. Upper Shillong is quieter, closer to Elephant Falls and the Shillong View Point, and chilly at night in a nice wrap-yourself-in-a-shawl way. Budget-wise: hostels around ₹500–₹900 for a dorm bed, homestays in the ₹1,200–₹2,500 range, mid-range hotels ₹3,500–₹6,000, and boutique stays ₹7,000–₹12,000 if you wanna splurge by the lake or at places like Ri Kynjai (that’s not exactly in-city but worth the extra kms if you want serenity). There’s also Courtyard Shillong and Vivanta Meghalaya for those who like fancy breakfasts and predictable service. I stayed in a small guesthouse run by an auntie who insisted I eat more jadoh after a long day — you don’t argue with auntie. Location-wise, I’d pick Laitumkhrah again if café-hopping is your vibe; Police Bazar for convenience; Upper Shillong if you’re here for green things, quiet and early sunrises.¶

Café crawl: Dylan’s, Café Shillong, ML05, and the cozy corners you’ll keep thinking about#

Shillong’s café culture is a mood — musical, slightly nostalgic, and very, very tasty. People here love music, you’ll notice it immediately. Posters, guitars, playlists you end up Shazam-ing. I went in expecting good coffee and ended up planning my days around breakfast bakes and pork lunches. Dylan’s Café is a classic — good coffee, burgers, photos of Dylan and that vibe that makes you sit longer than planned. Café Shillong has legendary status, especially for local plates and comfort food. ML05 has this biker aesthetic, solid shakes, and heavy-serving plates. You’ll also find cute bakeries scattered around Laitumkhrah with cheesecake slices that look like trouble. Don’t skip Khasi food spots though — the café scene is lovely, but it’s the jadoh houses that give you the soul of this place. More on that in a sec.¶

• Dylan’s Café (Risa Colony): Coffee, burgers, music posters. Try the pancakes if your sweet tooth is screaming.
• Café Shillong (Laitumkhrah): Pork dishes, momos, and mains that feel like good home food. Busy on weekends.
• ML05 Café (Mawlai/Upper Shillong side): Biker-themed, big portions, shakes, and fries. Good for lazy lunches.
• Local bakeries in Laitumkhrah lanes: Cheesecakes, cinnamon rolls, pineapple tarts. Don’t ask, just eat.

Now, the Khasi food lot. Jadoh stalls are casual eateries serving rice dishes with meats and spices — think comfort food but deep and earthy. Jadoh is rice cooked usually with pork, dohneiiong is pork with black sesame (inky, nutty, addictive), tungrymbai is fermented soybean with pork, funky but yum. Also look for dohkhlieh, a pork salad with onion and chilly that’s fresh and crunchy. Typical jadoh plates cost ₹80–₹200 depending on meat and add-ons. Veg options exist, not everywhere, but ask nicely and they’ll guide you. Many places are cash-friendly but UPI is pretty much everywhere now, so no stress. If you see aunties selling kwai (betel nut), that’s a big part of daily culture here — you’ll see people with little kwai pouches everywhere, even at weddings and meetings. Try it only if you want that strong kick.¶

Viewpoints inside the city: Wards Lake stroll, Shillong Peak, and that golf course green you can’t stop staring at#

Ward’s Lake is one of those old-world walkways that make you slow down. Wooden bridges, ducks staring at you for no reason, and easy photo spots. There’s a small entry fee (₹20-ish for adults last I checked, may vary), and you can sit with a cup of tea and avoid responsibilities for an hour. The Shillong Golf Course is massive, lush, and peaceful — it’s not for picnicking as such, but the stretch and the trees are beautiful for a breather. For the city’s big views, head to Shillong View Point at Laitkor. The viewpoint is inside an Air Force area, so carry a valid ID (Aadhaar/PAN/Passport). Entry fees are typically ₹30–₹50 per person with possible camera charges. Timings are usually day-time only, and photography is fine at the viewpoint but not inside base areas. On cloudless days you can see the entire city like lego pieces. On cloudy ones it looks like heaven forgot to open the curtains, still great.¶

Elephant Falls: three tiers, easy steps, and a lot of photos I still keep scrolling through#

Upper Shillong hosts the famous Elephant Falls, probably the most Instagrammed place in the city after cafés. It’s a three-tier cascade, with a pathway and steps that take you down. Entry fee is around ₹50 for adults, and there’s a camera fee too (forget the exact amount, but ₹20–₹50 range). Go early morning to avoid crowds or late afternoon for softer light. After rains, the flow is strong and noise is big, kinda thrilling honestly. In peak monsoon they sometimes restrict access to lower platforms if the water gets wild — pay attention to signage and staff. Footwear: wear regular sports shoes or sandals with grip, the steps can be wet and slippy. Also, don’t do the whole “edge-of-rock selfie” thing please — if you fall you will not only get hurt, you will also recieve the strictest scolding from everyone around. Outside, you’ll find stalls selling pineapples, bamboo crafts, shawls. Bargain, but gently. Meghalaya folks are polite and helpful; a smile keeps it nice.¶

Laitlum Canyon: fog, sheer drops, tea stalls, and that feeling you can’t put into words#

If there’s one viewpoint that made me shut up and just breathe, it’s Laitlum. Located near Smit village, about 45–60 mins drive from Shillong depending on traffic. The road is narrow in parts, drivers go slow, and you should too. There’s usually no entry fee, maybe a couple of local parking charges depending on where you stop (₹20–₹50). Best time? Sunrise or close to sunset, if the sky cooperates. But be ready for fog — it can roll in and out, like someone is playing with a giant smoke machine. On clear days you’ll see valleys and gorges and tiny stitched villages below. There’s a trail down from the rim to Rasong/Langkaw side if you’re keen on hiking — it’s not long but it’s steep-ish, do it only if your knees and time agree. Carry water, a light windcheater, and don’t wander too close to edges. The tea stalls nearby make simple egg maggi that tastes like a Michelin-star thing after a windy walk.¶

Here’s a chill way to plan a day: start at Laitlum early, watch clouds play, have chai, then drive back toward the city for lunch at Café Shillong or a jadoh house in Laitumkhrah. Do Ward’s Lake for a slow stroll, head to Elephant Falls before it gets too late, and finish at Dylan’s for coffee and dessert. If you’re taking taxis, a full-day local cab in Shillong might be around ₹2,500–₹3,500 depending on stops and time — confirm before starting. Self-drive rents exist, and bike rentals typically ₹800–₹1,200 per day with deposit; keep your DL and ID handy. Shared taxis exist on fixed routes (black-and-yellow Maruti 800s are common), but they don’t go to Laitlum directly, so reserved cabs are simpler for viewpoints. Also, btw, signal goes patchy near canyons and upper ridges — pin locations beforehand, download maps offline, or just ask the tea stall guy. Works better than Google sometimes.¶

Latest vibes: festivals, music, and nights that end early but feel good#

Shillong’s calendar has become a lot more buzzy. The Cherry Blossom Festival (usually November) is a big one, with trees turning pink and concerts, food stalls, art, and young people taking over. There are also music gigs popping up thanks to the city’s obsession with rock, indie, and blues — check café boards, local Insta pages, or ask your hotel desk what’s happening that week. Shad Suk Mynsiem, the traditional Khasi spring dance festival, is beautiful and respectful to attend if timings line up. Nights do end earlier than metro cities — shops shut, streets get quieter, and folks prefer laid-back dinners to party-all-night. If you’re planning drinks, buy responsibly and keep it chill. Quick update: as of early 2025, Umroi (Shillong) airport has slightly improved connections but schedules can shuffle around; most travelers still prefer flying into Guwahati for dependable timings.¶

Practical stuff: best months, safety notes, connectivity, and local culture#

Best months? October to April for drier weather and comfortable days. May is nice too, pre-monsoon. June to September is full-blown rainy — moody, photogenic, but slippery and delays happen, so keep buffer days if you’re here then. It gets chilly at night even in shoulder months, so a light sweater/windcheater is your friend. Safety-wise, Shillong is generally safe, super friendly, and polite. Still, basic caution like anywhere: don’t flash cash, share taxi details with someone, avoid unlit alleys late night. In heavy rains, watch for landslip news along the Guwahati–Shillong route. Network: Jio and Airtel are solid in-city, patchy toward canyons or deep valleys. UPI is everywhere, vendors happily accept QR payments even for tiny chai bills. Plastic use is tightened in many parts of Meghalaya, so carry a refillable bottle and don’t litter — fines and, more importantly, lots of side-eye from locals who take clean hills seriously. Dress modestly when visiting villages and sacred sites (like Mawphlang Sacred Grove) and always ask before taking portraits of people.¶

Beyond the usual: Mawphlang Sacred Forest, Smit village quiet, and Umiam for chill seekers#

If your legs want a small walk and your head wants a deep story, do Mawphlang Sacred Forest with a local guide. They’ll tell you about taboos, rituals, plants that have stories, and why nothing is taken out of the forest — not even a leaf — without permission of the spirits. It’s peaceful and somehow weighty at the same time. Smit village has countryside charm and slow lanes; great to combine with Laitlum. Umiam Lake is a no-brainer for sunrise or sunset — there are view points and lakeside resorts. You can do boating too, check weather and timings. For day-trippers with time, Cherrapunji (Sohra) and Dawki are doable from Shillong but don’t rush both in one day; pick one or stay overnight if you can. Wei Sawdong near Sohra is glorious but the climb is tricky — wear proper shoes and don’t carry giant bags.¶

Okay, mini story time. Me and him went to Laitlum one evening thinking the sky will clear for golden hour. Ha. Fog came like a train. Couldn’t see 5 feet. We stood there, shivering, laughing, completely confused by our own optimism. Then this chai guy pops out from somewhere and goes, “Anda maggi?” Ten minutes later, we were sipping smoky tea, slurping maggi, and listening to the hills hum. No big sunset. No dramatic photos. Just a warm cup and a quiet, cozy feeling that, honestly, was better than any Instagram shot. The hills decide what you’ll see here. You just show up, sit, be nice, and let Shillong do its thing.¶

Costs and time planning: rough numbers so you don’t overthink your wallet#

Let me throw some simple maths so planning feels less scary. A comfortable daily budget for most travelers: ₹1,800–₹3,500 including local taxis, café meals, entry fees, and a mid-range room. Dorm folks can do ₹1,200–₹1,800 if they stick to jadoh stalls, shared taxis, and fewer paid attractions. Specifics: Ward’s Lake ₹20-ish, Elephant Falls ₹50 adult, camera fee ₹20–₹50. Shillong View Point ₹30–₹50 plus ID. Café meals ₹200–₹500 per plate, coffee ₹120–₹250. Jadoh meals ₹80–₹200. Full-day taxi ₹2,500–₹3,500. Bike rental ₹800–₹1,200 per day plus fuel. Airport–city cab from Guwahati ₹2,800–₹3,500, shared Sumo cheaper (₹350–₹500 per seat) but baggage and waiting time can be a bit chaotic. Timings: cafés open late morning and go till evening, some till 9–10 pm. Sundays can be quieter — check before.¶

• Carry ID for Shillong View Point and always ask about photography rules respectfully.
• Offline maps save lives when fog eats signal, especially around Laitlum and Upper Shillong.
• Layers, layers, layers. A light jacket and rain cover even if you think the sun is out.
• UPI works pretty much everywhere, cash still handy for small stalls and parking.
• Don’t litter, don’t pluck, don’t shout at viewpoints. Let the hills breathe.

Cafes vs local food: my fav combos, small ordering hacks, and what not to miss#

If you want that perfect “Shillong day,” start with coffee and a sweet bake, then hunt down a jadoh joint for lunch. When ordering Khasi dishes, ask the server to explain spice levels — some chutneys have wicked heat. Dohneiiong is a must-try, actually. If you’re veg, ask for tungrymbai without pork add-on and go for vegetable jadoh or pumaloi (steamed rice cakes) if available. In cafés, go beyond cappuccino — lot of places do local tea infusions and clever desserts. Dylan’s pancake stacks paired with black coffee was my morning religion. Café Shillong’s pork dishes and momos are comfort-food royalty. ML05 for shakes and crispy fries after a long viewpoint day. And please don’t be shy about asking where the live gig is — you’ll stumble into small sets that feel intimate and cool. Half the joy is sitting with strangers and sharing fries.¶

Local etiquette and tiny things that make everything smoother#

People here are warm but reserved. A hello and a smile go a long way. Dress sensibly if visiting villages or sacred sites; avoid loud noises and drone use where it’s not allowed. Always ask before clicking people’s photos, especially elders. Road rules: go slow, honk as a courtesy at blind turns, and let buses pass. If a shop is shutting, don’t push it — things close early, it’s a rhythm. One more thing: weather shifts are fast. You may start with clear sunshine and suddenly it’s drizzle and a cold breeze — don’t get caught without your jacket or rain cover, trust me I’ve done that dance. Oh and keep a 15–20 min buffer between spots, the city’s traffic gets dense around school and office hours.¶

Sample 2-day plan, if you like some structure but also wanna wander#

Day 1: Arrive, Umiam stop, check-in Laitumkhrah. Lunch at Café Shillong. Ward’s Lake stroll. Evening coffee at Dylan’s, slow dinner or jadoh plate depending on mood. Sleep early. Day 2: Sunrise Laitlum (if clouds behave), tea at stall, back for brunch. Do Shillong View Point with ID, then Elephant Falls mid-afternoon. Wrap up with ML05 shakes and fries, plus a local gig if you find one. If rain ruins things, embrace it: long coffee, bookshop browsing, golf course walk, and a heavy Pork dohneiiong dinner. You won't regret anything.¶

Final feelings, a little messy but honest, and yeah — I’d go back tomorrow#

Shillong is quiet in the loudest way. You’ll hear the rain, the guitar, the hush on valleys, and the crunch of fries, and somehow everything adds up to a calm that stays in your bones. Not everything is perfect — fog eats your sunset, lines at cafés on weekends, roads get slow in rain — but that’s the charm, isn’t it? The city doesn’t perform for you; you have to fit into its mood. Eat slow. Walk slower. Talk to folks and ask for directions. Try jadoh. Sit at Laitlum even if you can’t see anything. And if you’re planning more hill stories and practical guides, peek at AllBlogs.in — I keep finding trip ideas and small hacks there that make my next plan less chaotic.¶