Trekking Zanskar Valley, Ladakh: Iconic High-Altitude Routes — the kind of trip that stays in your bones#

Zanskar is one of those places that quietly sits in your head for years and then, when you finally go, it just… shifts something. I landed in Leh, did the boring-but-necessary acclimatization, and then rolled into Padum after a long, dusty ride that felt like being inside a travel documentary where the cameraman forgot to cut. Cold wind, big skies, that dramatic, stubborn landscape. Honestly, I didn’t expect it to be this emotional. But it was. And also tiring. And weirdly addictive.

The big routes: what I trekked, what I messed up, what you should know#

Zanskar has a few treks that every desi trekker whispers about on chai breaks. The classic Lamayuru–Lingshed–Padum via Singge La. The Darcha–Shingo La–Padum route that threads Lahaul to Zanskar. And the mythical Chadar Trek on the frozen Zanskar river in deep winter — beautiful, risky, sometimes cancelled. I did parts of the Singge La route, touched the Shingo La side on a shorter itinerary, and squeezed in a side trail to Phugtal, and yeah, every path had its own mood.

Lamayuru–Lingshed–Padum via Singge La (aka the old-school heartbreaker)#

This is the one that made me feel small and brave at the same time. You start near Lamayuru’s moonscape and swing through Photoksar and Lingshed, over Singge La (around 5,000 m), and eventually down to Padum. The climb to Singge La is long, the views are huge, and the homestay nights were the best — smoky kitchens, butter tea, laughter, someone’s puppy sleeping on your dusty socks. Aama-ji at Photoksar gave me skyu (a thick, hand-pulled pasta stew) and told me to eat slow. I didn’t. Still burnt my tongue, worth it.

  • Typical duration: 7–10 days if you do full Lamayuru to Padum
  • Best months: mid-July to mid-September (June can still have snow, Oct is beautiful but freezing at night)
  • Difficulty: moderate to tough; high passes, long days, thin air
  • Where you stay: village homestays (₹900–1,500 per person, meals included), a couple basic guesthouses
  • Highlight: Lingshed monastery sunrise and those endless ribbed ridgelines under a crisp blue sky

Darcha–Shingo La–Padum (Lahaul to Zanskar, a rough-and-real connector)#

So, this route is dramatic — you basically move through a different world and dip into Zanskar via Shingo La, which sits a little above 5,000 m. It’s raw. On one noon crossing near a glacial stream, me and him went boot-deep in ice water, and I swear I seen my soul leave for 4 seconds. Mule men joked I walk like a duck. Also saw herds of blue sheep if you look long enough at the slopes. As of 2025, the Shingo La road is mostly motorable now, which makes logistics easier, but the trek is still the trek — footpaths, camps, wind, quiet. Don’t skip acclimatization, I made that mistake once and got the classic headache-from-hell.

  • Typical duration: 5–7 days if you start near Darcha and cross Shingo La to reach the Padum side
  • Best window: July to September when the pass opens up properly
  • Costs: guide + support (₹2,500–5,000 per person per day depending on group size and gear); self-supported cheaper but tougher
  • Tip: carry water filter and ORS; streams are fine but your stomach isn’t a hero everyday

Chadar Trek (Frozen Zanskar) — breathtaking, but please read this before you romanticize it#

I’ve wanted to do Chadar since college (who didn’t?), walking on a frozen river like a movie scene. Reality check: climate patterns have gotten weird, the ice forms later or breaks earlier, and blasting work on the Nimmu–Padum road side can lead to safety closures. Some seasons the district authorities just pause the trek, and honestly that’s sensible. When it runs, there’s a strict protocol — medical check, minimum acclimatization days in Leh, environment fee, vetted operators, gumboots, and you move like a careful cat, not a hero. Beautiful silent canyon walls, yes, but it’s not a “quick” adventure. Respect the locals and the river.

  • Usual Chadar window: mid Jan to mid Feb, but it varies and can be cancelled last minute based on ice stability and advisories
  • You’ll need: medical fitness clearance, environment/wildlife permits, registered trek operator. Check latest notices from DC Leh and UT Ladakh before planning
  • Package prices: roughly ₹20,000–45,000 depending on duration, inclusions, and safety requirements

Side story: Phugtal Monastery (Phuktal) trek — cave gompa that feels like a secret#

From Padum, I did a shorter trail to Purne and then the cliff-hugging path to Phugtal. The monastery is literally stitched into the rock, with prayer flags flapping like they’re fighting the wind. A young monk served me sweet tea and we sat quietly looking at the gorge. No Instagram filter does that color of the river. The walk has a thin ledge in places — take it slow. On the way back, a local kid ran past me in slippers. I was in fancy trekking shoes. He giggled. I humbled.

Getting there: Leh, Kargil, Manali, and that one heli seat you’ll pray for#

Most people fly to Leh. Then you have two main ways to reach Padum: via Kargil–Pensi La (open summer months) or via Darcha–Shingo La (post-snow season). Shared taxis are the lifeline — not comfy, but iconic. There’s also occasional bus services, and in winter, subsidized heli services run for locals, sometimes available to tourists if seats exist and weather allows. Don’t bank on it unless you’re flexible with plans.

  • Leh to Kargil shared taxi: ₹1,600–2,200 per seat; full taxi ₹15,000–20,000 depending on season
  • Kargil to Padum (summer): ₹2,500–3,200 per seat; long day via Pensi La, opens around June–Oct
  • Manali to Darcha: easy by bus/taxi, then onward towards Shingo La side if it’s open
  • Padum connectivity: Jio 4G works in town, BSNL too on and off; outside Padum, network is a coin toss

Where I stayed, what it cost, and small truths#

Padum has a mix — homestays, simple guesthouses, a few mid-range hotels. I paid ₹1,000–1,400 per person in homestays including meals (chapati, dal, local veggies, sometimes thukpa). Mid-range rooms in town swing ₹3,000–5,000 depending on how close to the bazaar and whether they promise hot water. Out on the trek, it’s mostly homestays — expect smoky kitchens, down quilts, and a calm you’ll miss later. Carry cash. ATMs in Padum work, then don’t, then work… UPI is growing but don’t rely totally.

Food and culture — eat, listen, repeat#

Eat skyu after a cold day, it’s like a hug. Try thukpa, tingmo, and butter tea (yes, salty, yes, you’ll like it on day 3). Locals are warm and straight-talking, and they don’t make a fuss. In monasteries, keep quiet, no shoes in prayer rooms, don’t point your camera in faces during puja. Offer a small donation if you can. I carried chhurpi back home and my mother claimed it was “hard like my head.” Fair.

Best seasons, real weather talk, and why your jacket will save your butt#

For high-altitude treks, mid-July to mid-September is the sweet spot. June can be iffy with remnant snow; October is gorgeous, golden light, but it gets really cold at night and early snow can block passes. Winter treks are a different beast altogether — I won’t sugarcoat it. Zanskar has dry air, strong afternoon winds, and sun that bites. Layering is king. That thin fleece isn’t enough when the wind decides it doesn’t like you.

  • Spend 2 nights in Leh (or Kargil) before you push higher — your lungs need it
  • Walk slow, breathe rhythmically, break often. No hero sprints on passes
  • Hydrate like a maniac. Warm soups > cold water when you’re shivering
  • Diamox only if your doc says so. AMS is real. If symptoms escalate, descend, don’t negotiate

Permits, safety, and the latest ground vibe#

Good news — most of Zanskar doesn’t require Inner Line Permits for Indian nationals now. For certain eco-sensitive areas and winter treks, you’ll pay an environment/wildlife fee, and for Chadar there’s strict protocol with medical checks and registered operators. Road works on the Nimmu–Padum side can cause closures or delays. Weather can flip plans in an afternoon. Keep a buffer day or two, jat risk mat lo. Rescue services exist, but you’re far from everything — be your own first responder.

  • Tourist helpline: 112 for emergencies; local police posts in Padum are helpful
  • Travel insurance that covers high-altitude trekking is not optional, it’s sanity
  • Tell someone your route plan. Homestays often coordinate if you’re late on a section
  • Headlamp, power bank, paper maps, offline GPS — battery dies fast in cold

Packing list that actually mattered (not the Instagram nonsense)#

  • Trekking shoes with good grip + camp slippers
  • Down jacket, windproof shell, warm base layers, beanie, liner gloves + heavier gloves
  • Sunscreen SPF 50+, lip balm, sunglasses with UV protection
  • Water filter or purification drops, ORS, basic meds, altitude meds only if prescribed
  • Headlamp, power bank, extra batteries, a light thermos for hot water
  • Gumboots if you’re planning frozen river or heavy stream crossings in shoulder season
  • Dry fruits, chikki, instant noodles (Maggi diplomacy is real), reusable bottle
  • Cash, photocopies of ID, a small notebook — yes, the analog one

Lesser-known spots that surprised me#

  • Stongdey Gompa at sunrise — the whole valley looks painted
  • Zangla Fort — crumbling, quiet, feels like the past is still watching
  • Sani Lake and monastery — super chill vibe, good afternoon stroll
  • Photoksar meadows — green ribs under stormy skies, bring a camera not a drone please
  • Bardan Monastery — dramatic perch, lovely elder monks if you’re respectful

Money talk: what I spent vs what I thought I’d spend#

Rough math for a week-long Zanskar trek with homestays: ₹25,000–45,000 depending on your route, guides, transport, and how much you snack. Shared taxis to and from Padum add up — budget ₹6,000–10,000 across legs if you’re hopping via Kargil or Darcha. If you want porters or a full service trek, you’ll cross ₹60,000, but you get comfort and logistics handled. Not cheap, but Zanskar isn’t a place where you cut corners. You pay, you breathe, you smile like a fool at mountains.

A few mistakes I made (so you don’t)#

I didn’t hydrate enough on day 2, got a headache and grumpy attitude. Packed too few socks. Forgot to switch my phone to airplane mode in the cold — battery died mid-photo of the most beautiful ridge. Walked too fast downhill and my knee sang sad songs. Oh, and I under-ate breakfast thinking I’ll snack later. No. Eat like a polite yak, then walk.

In Zanskar, nothing is rushed. The valley decides your pace. If you surrender a little, it gives you everything — vastness, quiet, and a kind of humble joy.

If you’re planning a Zanskar trek this year or next, do it with patience. Routes are opening up, roads improving, but it’s still real wild country. Go slow, talk to locals, stay in homestays, eat skyu, and leave no trash behind. I’m already plotting another loop — maybe full Lamayuru to Padum without shortcuts, maybe a deeper Phugtal detour. Let’s see. For more travel stories and nerdy planning tips, I keep checking AllBlogs.in — solid place to dig up practical stuff without getting lost in sponsored fluff.