North India Budget Adventure: Kashmir, Himachal, Uttarakhand & Ladakh — a real desi backpack story#

I did this big mad loop up north with a scruffy backpack, one cracked powerbank, and way too many Maggi packets. Kashmir, Himachal, Uttarakhand and finally Ladakh. Not fancy, not luxury. Just cheap stays, state buses, shared sumos, and full-on mountain soul. It wasn’t perfect… which is why it was kind of perfect, you know?

Money talk first (’coz budget is a mood)#

I kept it around ₹1,200–₹2,000 per day most days. That included dorm beds (₹400–₹800), simple homestays (₹1,500–₹2,500), local buses, shared cabs, street food, chai. UPI works almost everywhere now, even tiny dhabas in the hills, but carry cash because network goes full drama in remote stretches. Also, quick PSA for J&K and Ladakh — only postpaid SIMs work reliably. If you’re on prepaid from outside J&K, it might just not. I carried a Jio postpaid, lifesaver when I needed it. Also, keep one buffer day in your plan. Always. Things close, roads slide, AMS happens. Learned the hard way.

Kashmir on a shoestring: dal waters, kahwa, and long walks#

Srinagar hit different. I stayed on a budget houseboat on Nigeen Lake for ₹1,200 a night (no fancy carpets, but clean, warm host). Morning shikara was like therapy. Old city lanes around Zaina Kadal were as real as it gets — bakeries selling girda, noon chai, flaky kulchas. Street food? Seekh kebabs near Khayam Chowk and harisa if you catch winter. Safety-wise, it’s been steady lately with more tourists coming in. You’ll see CRPF checks and barricades sometimes. Felt fine overall, but don’t wander into sensitive zones just to flex, ya. Internet can dip randomly, so download offline maps.

  • Best months on budget: April–June for bloom and light jackets, Sep–Oct for mellow crowds. Winter is magical snow but more closures.
  • Shared sumos from Srinagar to Sonamarg/Pahalgam are super value compared to private taxis. Ask local stands near TRC.
  • Gulmarg gondola can get pricey and lines get crazy on weekends. If tight budget, just trek around the meadows, rent boots for snow days.
  • Lesser-known: Yousmarg meadows if you’re allergic to crowds. Also Hazratbal in the morning — birds, calm, a vibe.

Himachal: chai, buses, and those homestay stories#

Himachal is for the slow travel gang. I hopped HRTC buses like a pro. Delhi to McLeod, then Dharamkot, then Bir. Dorm beds ₹500–₹800, private rooms ₹1,200–₹2,000. Dharamkot cafes do massive breakfasts for like ₹250 and you can sit all day, nobody cares. Bir Billing paragliding is still the big thing — rates float around ₹2,500–₹3,500 for a tandem depending on season and operator. Happened to me that the wind changed last minute and me and him went just the next morning, was epic. Monsoon is pretty but honestly landslides don’t care about your Instagram, so July–August be cautious, follow local advisories.

  • Hidden-ish picks: Sainj Valley’s Shangarh meadows if you want soft grass and zero noise. Tirthan/Jibhi for river sound + cheap guesthouses. Avoid peak weekends.
  • Bus tip: Morning HRTC rides are gold — less crowd, less stress. Download the HRTC app, it actually works ok now.

Food I kept going back for in HP#

Siddu with ghee in Kullu side, momos and thukpa in McLeod (yes it’s touristy but it slaps), trout curry in Dharamsala local dhabas, and that roadside rajma chawal that feels like a hug. Keep a thermos if you can, free refills of chai hehehe.

Uttarakhand: calm, treks, and mata rani’s roads#

Rishikesh is an easy start — dorms ₹400–₹700 near Tapovan, yoga drop-ins are back in trend, ₹300–₹600 a class. Ganga aarti still goosebumps. If trekking, Kedarkantha winter trek is budget friendly with shared groups, and Valley of Flowers blooms mid-June to early Sept — you can do it DIY from Govindghat with GMVN stays around ₹1,500–₹2,500. For Char Dham routes, e-registration is mandatory these days, don’t land up without it. Also, start super early on mountain days, rockfall can delay you hours. Trains to Dehradun and Haridwar are many, there’s even a Vande Bharat to Dehradun now, so reaching the foothills is a breeze compared to earlier.

  • Joshimath base works for Auli and VOF. UTC buses are decent. For remote villages, shared Boleros are your best friends — ask tea stalls, they know everything.
  • Shoulder season magic: March–April for cool wind and flowers, Oct–Nov for quiet roads. Peak summer gets jammed… patience required.

Ladakh without breaking your lungs or wallet#

Okay, Ladakh was the grand finale. Rule one: acclimatize. I chilled in Leh for two days, minimal exertion, drank way too much water. Most Indian travelers don’t need Inner Line Permits for popular areas like Nubra or Pangong now, but do pay the environment/wildlife fee at Leh and keep the receipts — checkpoints will ask. Foreign nationals require Protected Area Permit, that still stands. Best window is June–Sept when Manali–Leh and Srinagar–Leh highways are open. I did a Nubra–Turtuk–Pangong loop on shared taxis, much cheaper than renting a private. Homestays in Diskit/Hunder are ₹1,500–₹2,500 per room with simple meals. Bike rentals in Leh run about ₹1,200–₹1,800 for 150cc and ₹2,200–₹2,800 for REs, plus fuel which isn’t cheap. Also, only postpaid networks work well, mostly BSNL/Jio. UPI works in town, but carry cash in remote stretches. Nights get cold even in August, don’t argue with altitude.

  • Hanle Dark Sky Reserve is hands-down the coolest new obsession. If roads are open, stargaze like mad. Pack layers, it’s freezing at night.
  • Turtuk culture walk — Balti homes, apricot orchards. Ask a local kid for directions, they’ll take you like it’s their mission.
  • BRO road updates on Twitter/X are surprisingly useful. Weather can flip. Keep buffer days especially if you’re skirting high passes.

What I actually spent across the loop (rough, but helpful)#

City buses and intercity rides: ₹200–₹1,200 depending on distance. Shared sumos in Kashmir and Uttarakhand: ₹150–₹500 per seat for day trips. Paragliding Bir: ~₹3k. Houseboat budget room Srinagar: ₹1.2k–₹2k. Homestays Ladakh: ₹1.5k–₹2.5k. Simple meals: ₹100–₹300 per plate. Chai: ₹20–₹30. Gondola in Gulmarg is not cheap, I skipped Phase 2 once because my wallet cried, walked instead, still happy. If you’re hyper frugal, you can squeeze under ₹1k on some days, but don’t do it at the cost of safety or food.

Safety, sanity, and being a decent traveller#

Monsoon in HP and UK can get rough — landslides, delays, random road closures. In Kashmir, just follow local advisories and be respectful around sensitive zones. Ladakh AMS is real, don’t sprint on day one. Carry a basic med kit, ORS, sunscreen, a decent rain layer. Keep trash with you till you find a bin. Always ask before you click photos of locals. Solo women travellers I met felt mostly safe in homestays and hostels — still, share live locations with someone you trust. Wifi goes missing sometimes, so don’t plan a tight deadline trip. In early 2025 when I went, UPI reliability was way better than a couple years back, but offline backups matter.

Food and small joys that made the trip feel… mine#

Crispy bakarkhani and pink noon chai in Srinagar. A plate of buttery siddu in Kullu. A limp but lovable aloo paratha at a random UK bus halt. Yak butter tea in Nubra — not for everyone but I kinda loved it. Apricots straight off the tree in Turtuk. And that thick sweet lassi in Rishikesh after a hot day, felt like a reward for just existing.

Transport hacks that saved me time and money#

Book overnight trains to gateways like Jammu, Dehradun, Chandigarh. Then use state buses — HRTC, UTC, JKSRTC. Shared cabs leave when full, so be early. In Srinagar, Transport Nagar stands are proper hubs for sumos. In Ladakh, many travellers form WhatsApp groups at hostels for cost sharing on taxis. Pro tip: don’t insist on an exact schedule, hill timing is elastic. And keep a photocopy of your ID and those environment fee slips in Ladakh, I got asked twice in one day near Tangtse, lol.

Seasonal sweet spots (and when to maybe stay home)#

Spring in Kashmir is tulip season and almond blossoms, but rates spike a bit. Early June in Himachal is cloud-kissed without heavy monsoon. Uttarakhand shoulder seasons are best for road sanity. Ladakh… July–Aug is comfortable, but can be crowded. October is dreamy light but some high passes start flirting with closures. Winter treks like Kedarkantha and snow days in Gulmarg are fun, but budget extra for warm layers and no one can promise blue skies.

A slightly chaotic 16-day route that actually worked#

  • Day 1–3: Srinagar + Yousmarg day trip. Houseboat stay. Old city walks, kahwa. Shared cabs to Sonamarg if open.
  • Day 4–6: Bus to Dharamshala/McLeod. Chill in Dharamkot. Cafe days. Sunset at Naddi. Maybe Triund if you got the legs.
  • Day 7–8: Bir Billing. Fly once. Work-from-cafe vibes if you’re that person. Cheap stays abound.
  • Day 9–11: Rishikesh. Ganga aarti, yoga drop-in, cafe hopping without guilt. Plan next leg on slow WiFi.
  • Day 12–16: Leh. Two days acclimatization. Then Nubra–Turtuk–Pangong loop on shared taxis. Return via Chang La. Buffer day for weather.

Could have added Spiti but honestly that’s a whole trip by itself. Don’t try to cram North India into a checklist. It’s not a spreadsheet.

Random things I learned (the hard way mostly)#

Start earlier than you think. Carry a tiny towel. Download maps offline. Talk to locals — they’ll tell you where the real food is. Don’t leave without eating phirni in Srinagar and not with a spoon, just dig in. If a plan falls apart, it’s not a sign to quit, it’s just the mountains telling you to chill. Also, always check the official tourism pages and district admins on social for updated advisories — winds change fast, roads faster.

Budget travel in North India isn’t about suffering. It’s about being okay with chai breaks, slow buses, homestay chats, and stars so bright in Hanle you’ll forget your phone exists.

If you go, go with heart — and a few rupees spare#

I didn’t expect the loop to feel this personal. Kashmir gave me gentleness, Himachal gave me patience, Uttarakhand gave me breath, and Ladakh… gave me that massive sky. If you’re planning a similar run, keep it loose, keep it local, don’t cheap out on safety, and eat where the aunties cook. For more travel stories and practical guides, I usually peek at AllBlogs.in — nice mix of real tips and inspo, not too preachy.