Seven Sisters Road Trip: 10-Day Itinerary & Permit Checklist (and all the real stuff no one told me)#

I finally did it. Packed the car, convinced my cousin to take leave, and pointed the nose of our dusty hatchback towards the Northeast. The “Seven Sisters” had been on my list for ages—you know how it is, we keep saying next year, next winter, after the monsoon—and then life happens. But this time I went. Not a fancy influencer convoy, just two slightly-chaotic Indians with a boot full of Maggi packets, a power bank that kept dying, and this stubborn itch to see clouds touch living root bridges, rhinos in Kaziranga, old monasteries carved into the hills, and tea shops everywhere.¶

Why this road trip is honestly worth the chaos#

Look, the Seven Sisters aren’t like doing Jaipur–Jaisalmer–Jodhpur where things are neat, marked, and comfortable. Here the weather can flip in minutes, roads curve like jalebi, and permits can feel annoying (we’ll get to that). But the payoff? Unreal. Water that’s so clear in Dawki you can see each pebble, Khasi aunties frying jadoh and pork like it’s the only way to live, monks humming at Tawang monastery, the bamboo houses in Mizoram perched like they’re about to take off… It’s India, but also not, in the best possible way. And locals are sweet. Slightly shy sometimes, but if you smile, they’ll smile back twice. Also, there’s a thing going on here lately—community homestays, clean village campaigns, local guides—real sustainable stuff. Not perfect, but improving. It felt good to spend my money there.¶

Before you go: realistic prep (pls don’t skip)#

- Car condition: service it, especially breaks and clutch. Hill roads will expose every issue you’ve been ignoring. If you’re renting, Guwahati is the best base for self-drive (Zoomcar, local agencies), and bike rentals are common in Shillong and Kohima.
- Network: Airtel and Jio are the safest bets. In Arunachal interior, signal goes for snacks. Download offline maps on Google Maps. Telegram groups help during road blocks and landslides.
- Money: UPI works in most towns, but remote villages = cash. ATMs in bigger towns (Shillong, Kohora, Tawang, Kohima, Aizawl, Imphal). Keep loose change for tea, parking, and small bridges.
- Fuel: top up early. Some stretches have long gaps between pumps. Also, keep the RC, PUC, insurance printouts. Police checkposts are frequent and actually chill if your docs are clean.
- Driving at night: avoid. Fog isn’t funny, especially near passes like Sela. We did one late run, never again. Also, border-adjacent areas strictly no drone (don’t be that guy).¶

A 10-day itinerary that actually works (mostly) if you don’t try to do everything#

This isn’t the only way to do it, but if you want a taste of multiple states without feeling like a parcel being couriered, here’s my honest route. We started and ended in Guwahati. If I could change one thing, I’d add two buffer days—one for rains, one for when your bum refuses to sit in the car again.¶

• Day 1: Guwahati → Shillong (100 km / 3–4 hrs). Start early. Stop for breakfast at Nongpoh. Reach Shillong by noon, walk Ward’s Lake, Police Bazaar for tea, evening cafe scene at Laitumkhrah. If you’re renting bikes, sort it today.
• Day 2: Shillong → Cherrapunji (Sohra) via Mawphlang Sacred Grove and Laitkynsew (60–80 km / 2–3 hrs + stops). Do the Sacred Grove walk with a local guide; it’s strangely peaceful. Stay near Sohra or Laitkynsew. Weather flips a LOT; we got caught in sudden rain and my shoes never dried again.
• Day 3: Double Decker Living Root Bridge trek (Nongriat) + Mawsmai caves. Start early, do the stairs down (and up—brace your knees). Post-trek jadoh at a small dhaba. If you have energy, small detour to Wei Sawdong falls. Night in Sohra.
• Day 4: Sohra → Dawki & Mawlynnong → Jowai → back to Shillong or onward to Assam (long day, 200+ km). Dawki river boating—water so transparent it looks fake. Mawlynnong is very clean, but quite touristy now. If you want offbeat, do Krang Suri Falls near Jowai—blue like a screensaver. Night halt in Shillong or head towards Assam.
• Day 5: Shillong → Kaziranga (250–280 km / 6–7 hrs). Long drive, but the highway’s quite decent. Stay near Kohora. Book your next morning safari (western range for rhino sightings). Dinner: Assamese thali—if you see steamed fish with banana leaf, order it.
• Day 6: Kaziranga safari + drive to Majuli (150–180 km with ferry). Morning jeep safari, then push towards Jorhat and ferry to Majuli (subject to timings; check the last ferry or you’ll camp at the ghat with chai). Majuli’s pace is slow, stay in a bamboo hut homestay, visit satras (Auniati, Kamalabari), cycle around.
• Day 7: Majuli → Ziro (Arunachal Pradesh) via Kimin/Bandardewa ILP gate (250–300 km / 8–10 hrs depending on permit checks). Start early. You need ILP for Arunachal. Ziro plains are gorgeous—paddy fields, pine groves, Apatani villages. Night bonfire if the weather’s dry. If it’s September, Ziro Music Festival is the vibe.
• Day 8: Ziro → Itanagar → back towards Assam or direct to Nagaland (Kohima) (long but doable). If you’re going Kohima, try to reach by evening. Khonoma green village is an easy half-day trip from Kohima—absolutely worth it.
• Day 9: Dzukou Valley trek (Nagaland side). Start early, carry water and snacks. The valley looks like a painting. Weather can be moody, but even misty Dzukou feels like you’re inside a fantasy game. Back to Kohima by night. If you’re there in early December, Hornbill Festival is a big deal—book stays in advance.
• Day 10: Kohima → Dimapur → onwards to Imphal (Manipur) if you have permits and time, or loop back to Guwahati (this is where your stamina decides). If you do Imphal, Loktak Lake and the floating phumdis will stay in your head forever. Else, return to Guwahati, eat pithas, and pretend you’re not sad it’s over.

Is this ambitious? Yes. Will you manage all seven states? Honestly, no, not in 10 days unless you’re sprinting. But you’ll cover Meghalaya, Assam, Arunachal, Nagaland comfortably, and if you have energy, a dash of Manipur. Tripura and Mizoram deserve their own week (Agartala, Unakoti, Reiek, Aizawl), so don’t cram. The road trip is about savoring, not collecting pins.¶

Permits: the real checklist (don’t panic, it’s simpler now)#

Inner Line Permit (ILP) is required for Indian citizens entering Arunachal Pradesh, Nagaland, Mizoram, and Manipur. Meghalaya, Assam, and Tripura don’t need ILP. Foreigners have different systems (PAP/RAP), and some routes are restricted—double check. Most ILPs can be done online these days, thank god. Carry printed copies; phone PDFs are fine until network dies at a check gate and the officer just wants to stamp something physical.¶

Tips that saved my skin:
- Apply ILPs online at least 48 hours before driving. Take printouts. Keep extra copies for each passenger.
- If your route crosses in and out (like Assam → Arunachal → Assam → Nagaland), list multiple points in your application where possible.
- For Bumla Pass near Tawang: Indians only, apply at Tawang DC Office with original ID, and the Army gate issues timing. Roads are rough, go on a clear day.
- Foreigners: do PAP/RAP checks well in advance, and hire registered guides for certain zones.
- Police checkposts: be polite, don’t argue, have patience. Most are helpful if you’re organized.¶

Latest updates, safety stuff, and road conditions I saw#

- Weather: Post-monsoon (Oct–Dec) is gold for road trips. Winter (Jan–Feb) is crisp; high passes can get icy. Pre-monsoon (Mar–Apr) is lush, rain on and off. Peak monsoon (Jun–Sep): landslides happen more, be flexible.
- Festivals: Hornbill (Dec, Nagaland), Ziro Music Festival (Sep, Arunachal), Wangala (Nov, Meghalaya), Bihu (Assam, Apr). Book early during these, stays fill out.
- Safety: I felt safe overall. Nights, avoid remote roads, not because people are unsafe, but because fog and roadwork are real. Some areas in Manipur have seen tensions off and on—check local news or district pages before heading.
- EVs: Guwahati and Shillong now have a few charging points, but the network is thin once you head into hills. If you’re on an EV, plan meticulously and carry a portable charger for emergencies.
- Drones & borders: Don’t. Especially near international borders. It’s a strict no and you can get into trouble.¶

Stays and costs (what we paid vs what’s typical)#

You can do this budget or cute boutique or slightly fancy—Northeast has all options now. Our mix was homestays + a couple of clean hotels.
- Shillong: 1500–3500 INR/night for a decent guesthouse. Cafe scene is good; parking is pain.
- Sohra/Cherrapunji & Laitkynsew: 1200–3000 INR for pretty homestays with valley views. Some include breakfast.
- Kaziranga (Kohora side): 2000–6000 INR for lodges. The higher end ones arrange safaris too.
- Majuli: 800–2000 INR for bamboo homestays; super affordable and lovely.
- Ziro: 1200–2500 INR for homestays; do try an Apatani-run place.
- Kohima/Khonoma: 1500–3000 INR; village stays are worth it.
- Imphal: 1200–2500 INR for clean budget hotels.
Food per day: 400–700 INR if you eat local and don’t go full Instagram brunch mode. Fuel: depends, but for our loop we did around 1,300–1,600 km total and spent roughly 9–12k INR on petrol.¶

What to eat (okay, this makes me hungry just typing)#

- Meghalaya: Jadoh (pork rice), dohneiiong (black sesame pork), tungrymbai (fermented soybean), and smoky grilled fish. Try kwai (betel nut) if you’re curious.
- Assam: Assamese thali with tenga fish curry, bamboo shoot pickle, and pitha (rice cakes). Reminded me of winter afternoons at home.
- Arunachal (Ziro/Tawang side): Thukpa, momos, smoked pork, local millet drinks (ask politely, don’t overdo). Apatani dishes are mild and earthy.
- Nagaland: Smoked meats, akhuni (fermented soybean), naga chutneys that will make you cry happily. In Khonoma, we had sticky rice with bamboo shoots—simple but perfect.
- Manipur: Eromba (vegetable mash with chillies), black rice kheer, singju salad. If you get a homestay dinner, say yes, always.
Carry your fav snacks too. Hill hunger hits sudden and you’ll thank yourself for that Parle-G stash.¶

Driving notes, distances, and small hacks#

- Guwahati to Shillong: 3–4 hrs depending on fog. Lots of speed breakers.
- Shillong to Sohra: Short but slow. Views. Also, tourists drive weirdly near popular falls—be alert.
- Sohra to Dawki/Mawlynnong/Jowai loop: Whole day with stops. If you want to nap, skip Mawlynnong and do Krang Suri.
- Shillong to Kaziranga: Long but smooth highway. Check for construction zones.
- Kaziranga to Majuli: Ferry timing is a thing. Ask locals early.
- Majuli to Ziro: Permit check at entry. Road conditions vary—broken patches after rains.
- Ziro to Kohima: Big day. Get tyre pressure checked.
- Kohima to Dzukou: Park at the trekking start, carry a small daypack. Don’t underestimate the climb.
General hack: Start at dawn, you’ll beat fog and the tourist rush. And carry a thermos—chai in the hills tastes better in your own cup, idk why.¶

Lesser-known spots if you have extra time (I wish)#

- Mawphlang Forest trail (Meghalaya): feels mythical.
- Shnongpdeng (near Dawki): calmer boating than Dawki.
- Pobitora (Assam): closer to Guwahati than Kaziranga, also rhinos.
- Dirang (Arunachal): hot springs, Dzong, apple orchards.
- Longwa (Nagaland): village splits India–Myanmar border—culture is fascinating. Requires careful planning and permits.
- Reiek (Mizoram): gorgeous sunset trek near Aizawl.
- Loktak Lake (Manipur): phumdis at sunrise are… wow.¶

Seasonal tips: when to go and what changes#

Best months: Oct to early March for road trips. Clear skies, festivals, less rain.
- Summer (Apr–May): Pleasant in hills, lower valleys get warm.
- Monsoon (Jun–Sep): Waterfalls are massive, but landslides can shut roads suddenly. Keep buffer days.
- Winter (Dec–Feb): Crisp air, fog in mornings, icy patches on high passes. Carry thermals.
Pack layers. Sun one minute, mist the next. And rain gear—even if it doesn’t rain, it will probably rain.¶

Documents & permit checklist to keep in the glovebox#

- ILP printouts for Arunachal/Nagaland/Mizoram/Manipur (if visiting). One set per person.
- Aadhaar + a second ID (PAN or DL). At least one original.
- Car papers: RC, Insurance, PUC, and driving license. Photocopies help.
- Hotel booking prints for ILP (sometimes asked).
- Two passport photos (old-school, but came handy once when the printer died at a gate).
- For special zones like Bumla: Tawang DC approval + Army pass on the day.
Keep everything in a ZIP folder, literally. Our papers got damp once and I cried a little.¶

Budgeting: what we spent vs what you should plan#

- Stay: avg 1800/night x 9 nights ≈ 16k
- Food: 500/day x 10 ≈ 5k
- Fuel: 9–12k for ~1,300–1,600 km loop
- Permits: 300–700 total depending on states and special passes
- Safaris and activities: 2–4k (Kaziranga jeep, Dawki boat)
So roughly 35–40k per person if 2 people share stays and fuel. You can do it cheaper (more homestays, public transport) or go fancy (boutique stays) and double it. Also, random things happen—punctures, rain, hunger—keep 5k for “idk what just happened” fund.¶

Public transport option if you’re not driving#

- Guwahati is the hub. Shared sumos and buses to Shillong every hour. From Shillong, plenty of taxis to Sohra/Dawki.
- Guwahati to Kaziranga: buses and shared cars (ask at ISBT). Majuli requires bus/ferry changes.
- For Arunachal, shared sumos are the way (book a day in advance). They start early morning.
- Nagaland: sumos run between Dimapur–Kohima. Dzukou requires local taxi to the trailhead.
- Manipur: shared jeeps on Dimapur–Imphal route, but check safety updates.
It’s slower, but cheaper, and honestly more local. I met the funniest grandma on a sumo who scolded me for not wearing enough layers.¶

Sustainable travel: small things that matter#

- Carry your own bottle and cup. Many villages are doing plastic-free drives. Don’t be that person with a bag of disposable trash.
- Choose homestays that show you how they manage waste. Ask questions; villagers actually appreciate curiosity.
- Stick to marked trails—root bridges and sacred groves aren’t theme parks.
- Buy local—black rice from Manipur, bamboo shoot pickles from Nagaland, woven shawls, cane craft.
- Respect photography rules—ask before clicking people, especially elders.
I’m not perfect either—forgot a wrapper once, went back to pick it. Felt silly but also… necessary.¶

Things I messed up (so you don’t)#

- Didn’t check ferry timing for Majuli, panicked at sunset.
- Thought the Dzukou climb was “easy”—it’s not if you’re unfit and cocky.
- Carried only one pair of shoes—Sohra rain said lol.
- Two ILP printouts felt enough; should’ve carried extra. One got wet, one got lost under the seat.
- Ignored a landslide advisory and landed in a 2-hour jam. Trust updates, please. Telegram/WhatsApp local groups are actually life.¶

CopyThe Northeast isn’t a checklist. It’s slower tea, muddy shoes, shared jeeps, people who don’t oversell. Come correct, leave lighter.

Tiny FAQ I get DMs about#

- Is it safe to self-drive? Yes, if you’re confident on hills and patient. Roads are mostly ok; monsoon can be tough.
- Do we need a 4x4? Not mandatory. A well-maintained hatchback or sedan works. For Bumla or very rough patches, hire a local vehicle.
- Permits are a headache? Less than before. Online portals have made it smoother.
- Best month? Oct–Dec for clear views; Sep for Ziro vibes.
- Can we do all seven states in 10 days? Honestly, don’t. You’ll only see highway medians.
- 2025 anything new? e-permit systems are more stable now and more homestays listed officially. But don’t overthink the year—check official portals right before you go for latest rules.¶

Wrap-up: what this trip felt like to me#

I’m writing this back home, the smell of smoked pork still in my memory and a bit of Kaziranga mud probably still stuck under the car mat. Northeast is different in a way that’s not loud. You drive, you stop, someone pours you tea, you see a village that’s cleaner than your city, you hike, you slip, someone laughs with you, and then clouds roll in and hide your view and you realise, it’s fine. The point is being there. Ten days gave me a taste, and I’ll go back—Mizoram and Tripura are calling me properly. If you’re on the fence, just start with Meghalaya–Assam, add Arunachal if you can, then Nagaland. Keep your permits sorted, drive safe, and don’t rush.
If you want more real itineraries and honest travel brains, I drop notes on AllBlogs.in sometimes—check it out, you’ll find stuff that’s useful beyond pretty pictures.¶